Roofing Blog Archives - Page 7 of 8

Jan30

Roofing Blog

What do you know about the Basics of Flat Roofs?

Flat roofs are most commonly found on commercial structures and in urban areas. While no roof should be truly flat, very very low sloped roofs, referred to as flat roofs, are different from the peaked roofs we most often discuss. Because of their low slope, water cannot quite drain as well on its own and special drainage systems must be installed. The materials used for a flat roof also differ from those that are used for peaked roofs. These materials are better able to handle water that does not drain as quickly as it would off of a peaked roof.

Flat roofs are covered with membrane roof systems. Before this is done, however, often a taper system is applied to the roof to ensure positive drainage: that water will drain away and off the roof, instead of pooling on the roof surface. A slope of no less than ¼ inch per foot is recommended for flat roofs. The taper system uses insulation sheets to create a slope carrying water from areas further away toward drains.

There are several types of drains used for flat roofs. If the roof does not have any sort of boundary around the edges, it can be tapered to drain into gutters (preferably) around the edges. Often, however, flat roofs may have some sort of boundary around the edges which prevent drainage. This is referred to as the perimeter wall or parapet wall. In this case drains must be installed on the roof itself. In this case the water drains through pipes running through the building interior and the roof must be tapered from the edges to the drain. Multiple such drains may be required on larger roofs.

When a roof with a parapet wall is covered by membrane, the membrane runs across the roof surface and up the wall. The corner between the wall and roof surface is softened with a cant strip. The top of the wall is flashed in such a way that the membrane stays in place and water does not enter beneath the membrane. Parapet walls also require back-up drainage systems, in case the internal drains ever get clogged. These are cut through the parapet walls two inches above the level of the primary drain and are called scuppers. They prevent water accumulating above two inches if the primary drains fail. Otherwise, the roof may collapse from the water weight. Rarely, usually on older roofs, scuppers may be installed at the deck line and act as primary drainage, in which case the roof would be tapered toward them.

There are two classes of membrane systems: single membrane and multiple-ply membranes. Multi-ply membrane roofs are made of rolled materials bonded with an asphalt bonding agent. These are usually called built up or hot tar roofs. The first layer that sits directly on the roof deck is the base sheet. It must stand up to pulling and tugging forces which may cause wear and tear as the roof decking expands and contracts with temperature and moisture changes. The sheet that is exposed to the elements at the top is called the cap sheet. It must resist the sun and weather. The sheets in the middle between the cap and base are the ply sheets. The number of plys (interior layers) determines the quality and cost of the roof, with more being better and more expensive. Three and five ply systems are common.

In installation, the base sheet is usually nailed to the roof decking. Adjoining strips are placed so that they overlap at the edges on every level. Hot tar is mopped over and between the plys and cap sheet, which seals the sheets together. Alternatively, in recent years self-sticking membrane sheets have begun to replace the hot tar method in some areas. There are three types of cap sheet. The first type is called mineral, and it is very similar to the coating of asphalt shingles. The second type is called smooth: this is an asphalt flood coat, which must be painted with reflective coating to prevent sun damage. The last type of cap is the aggregate finish where gravel is spread over the flood coat to protect it from the sun. As this gravel can also act as a way of weighing down the roof and holding it in place, it is called ballast.

Next we discuss single ply membrane roof systems. The two most common are modified bitumen and elastomeric. Both of these must be fastened with screws or nails or adhesive to the roof decking. The finish must resist breakdown from sun and weather.

Modified bitumen is made of asphalt or coal tar pitch with added plasticizers that make the material flexible. First, a base sheet is placed and fastened. Then, the modified bitumen is laid on top by one of two primary methods: hot mop (SBS) or torch down (APP). The modified bitumen either has a mineral facing or it is unfinished, in which case it must be covered with smooth stone aggregate. A coat of reflective paint is also an option. APP can be painted directly, but SBS needs a flood coat before painting.

Elastomeric membranes are made from plastic (PVC) or synthetic rubber (EPDM). There are usually three layers that are bonded in a single sheet during the manufacturing process. If not ballasted, they must be mechanically fastened with nails or screws or glued to the decking. If ballasted, these systems are only fastened at the edges and held down by ballast. Adhesive cannot be asphalt or coal tar pitch, as it breaks down the material. Insulation cushions PVC and is covered by a fabric or paper slip sheet to prevent damage as the plastic shifts. Both systems are glued or fastened at the seams. While EPDM uses chemical glue, PVC is heated-welded by a special machine. Smooth stone ballast may be placed on top of either PVC or EPDM systems.

If you have any questions about flat roofs or need any work done on your roof in the Palm Coast, Flagler, or Volusia area, please give Florida’s Best Roofing, Inc. a call and schedule a free estimate at 386-263-7906!

Jan17

Roofing Blog

Do you want to know what is Below Shingles on a Roof?

When you look at a roof what you notice first is its shape and the material, most often asphalt shingles, that covers it. Upon a closer look you may notice some vents and pipes, but besides that it is really impossible to see what the roof is really made of. Unless you see a roof being replaced or a new roof being installed, you may never know how many layers and types of materials are hidden underneath the shingles and really make up the roof beyond the visible materials.

In fact, there are several layers beneath the shingles that work to create the roof shape, support it, regulate temperature, insulate your home, and block out moisture. Knowing about what really makes up a roof can help you understand how it functions, how it can be damaged or protected, and help you in dealing with roofing issues on your property in the future.

Layers Under Roof Covering

Let’s go over the layers that make up a roof, starting from the bottom and heading up.

The Frame

The frame of the home is what gives it its shape and defines its boundaries. The frame of the roof creates its shape and the support for all covering material. The frames of modern homes are typically made of a series of wood trusses manufactured to the specifications of a particular blueprint or home design. Occasionally, roofs are built completely on-site with wooden beams cut to appropriate rafter size and put together on the structure. It is important to have an idea of what the finished roof will look like when creating the frame since frames for certain roofing materials, like clay or concrete tile or slate, require additional reinforcing in the frame to hold up their weight.

Insulation

Insulation in a house helps to regulate the internal temperature of a structure and prevent its fluctuations during weather changes. It also aids in reducing the use and cost of heaters and air conditioners. In a finished attic, the insulation is placed between the rafters of the roof’s frame. In an unfinished attic, the insulation can usually be found on the attic floor.

The Roof Deck

The roof deck is nailed on top of the roof frame. It is made of wooden boards, usually either plywood or another engineered wood product such as oriented particle board (OSB). This creates the roof’s surface on top of the trusses. Holes are cut in the roof deck at appropriate areas where roofing vents will eventually be installed.

Water Shield

A waterproof barrier or membrane that is designed to prevent build up of moisture or protect areas that are particularly susceptible to water damage is laid down next. This is typically a peel-and-stick membrane that is used to line all valleys on the roof and, in climates that have ice or snow in the winter, the perimeter around the eaves. The peel-and-stick membrane attaches directly to the roof’s deck.

Underlayment

Next, and directly below the roof covering, is the underlayment. There are several different kinds of underlayment, which we will go over below since they serve as an integral part of the roof, particularly in preventing water from reaching the roof deck and then causing leaks. Underlayment is usually made of fiberglass paper or felt, and it covers the entire roof. Depending on the type of underlayment, it is either nailed to the deck or sticks directly to it if it is self-adhesive.

Underlayment is either water-resistant or waterproof. There are three kinds of underlayment: asphalt-saturated felt, non-bitumen synthetic underlayment, or rubberized asphalt underlayment.

Asphalt-Saturated Felt

Until about 15-20 years ago, this was the most common kind of underlayment. It is water-resistant and nailed down to the roof. It is commonly called tar or felt paper and can vary in thickness. It consists of a base material (wood, cellulose, polyester, or fiberglass) which is soaked in a protective coat of asphalt (bitumen) or a similar material.

Synthetic Underlayment

This is presently the most common type of underlayment used by contractors, although in hurricane-prone central Florida it is quickly being replaced by the hardier rubberized asphalt (discussed below). Compared to felt paper (above) synthetic underlayment has increased durability. Fiberglass is added when the synthetic material is coated in asphalt, resulting in increased resistance to tears and punctures. Still, synthetic underlayment is water-resistant and must be nailed down to the roof deck.

Rubberized Asphalt

This is the most expensive type of underlayment, which is presently growing in popularity, although it leads to a higher cost of roof replacement. Its expense comes from a higher amount of rubber and asphalt polymers in production, which contribute to its strength. This underlayment comes with an adhesive on one side. When the covering is peeled away this adhesive sticks directly to the roof deck and creates a waterproof seal, as no nailing is required. It is also called peel-and-seal.

Once the chosen underlayment is in place, the roof covering is added, beginning with the shingle starter strip and drip-edge at the eaves, the vents and flashing in their designated spaces, and shingles (or other chosen covering material) across the entire roof.

If you have any questions about roof underlayment or need any work done on your roof in the Palm Coast, Flagler, or Volusia area, please give Florida’s Best Roofing, Inc. a call and schedule a free estimate at 386-263-7906!

Jan8

Roofing Blog

What Kind of Warranty Can I Get for a New Roof?

When you replace your roof with a new one you make a big investment, and naturally you want that investment to be protected. Large projects like roof replacement come with warranties. It is important to find out what kind of warranties are out there so you can make the best choices for yourself, your home, and your investment. For this reason, you should always look into the warranties offered by both material manufacturers and contractors before selecting a material for your new roof and the contractor who will install it.

Whether you are purchasing a completely new home with a new roof or you are replacing your existing roof with a new one, your roof will likely come with a warranty (and if it does not, you may want to look into getting a second or third opinion from a different contractor). Roof related warranties are generally split into two types, and both of these types of warranty should come with every new roof or roof replacement. The first is the manufacturer’s warranty, and the second is the contractor’s warranty. They cover two different aspects of the roof: the materials used and the way they are installed. We will look deeper into both aspects below.

Manufacturers’ Warranties

A manufacturer’s warranty is so named because it is guaranteed and provided by the manufacturer of the material used to cover the new or replaced roof. As we have covered in previous posts, there are many different kinds of roofing material, the most common in central Florida being asphalt shingles, followed by tile and metal roofing materials. All of these come with different warranty periods, guaranteed by their manufacturers.

Asphalt shingles warranties vary in length by type of shingle. Just a decade or two ago the principal type of asphalt shingle in use was the 3-tab shingle, which carried a warranty of 15-25 years depending on the manufacturer. Shingle manufacturing technology, however, is constantly improving. Nowadays, 3-tab shingles, the cheapest kind of shingle, carry a warranty of 30 years. But these are no longer the most common type of shingle used. Instead, we almost always use architectural shingles, which have an improved aesthetic and quality. These shingles come with a 40 year manufacturer’s warranty for the most basic sort and a limited lifetime warranty for the average grade. This warranty essentially translates into 50 years. The highest quality architectural shingles, also the most expensive sort, can carry warranties equal to the lifetime of the roof. Manufacturer’s warranties for asphalt shingles are typically transferable once in the case of property exchanging hands.

Limited lifetime manufacturer’s warranties are also typically guaranteed by tile and metal roofing material manufacturers. A typical explanation of the limited lifetime warranty in these cases is that they are in effect as long as the home remains owned by the same owner who replaced the roof (or purchased the home with a new roof). The good news is that if the home transfers ownership (that is, if you sell your house), the warranty is transferable! However, once transferred, the warranty remains in effect for a limited period, such as 40 or 50 years.

Due to recent technological innovations, manufacturer’s asphalt shingle warranties are now typically equal in length to tile and metal roofing material manufacturer’s warranties. All of these manufacturers’ warranties cover specifically problems that may arise in the roofing material resulting from defects in the manufacturing process. Some examples of these include rapid granule or color loss in shingles (also color change). Splitting and cracking are signs of defects in metal or tile. These are only covered if the cause is manufacturing defect, not poor installation technique or external causes (such as a tree falling down on the roof). Weather events, such as wind or hail, that can damage new and replaced roofs are sometimes nowadays covered under manufacturers’ warranties, but with limitations in factors like wind speed. For example, the architectural shingles that we use at Florida’s Best Roofing, Inc. come with a manufacturer’s warranty against winds of up to 130 miles per hour. It is important to remember, however, that weather damages like wind and hail are also typically covered by property insurance policies, and losses can be recouped by filing a claim with your home insurance company. For more details on this, see our earlier post on this topic.

Another thing to keep in mind about manufacturers’ warranties is that it is important to register your new roof with the manufacturer of the roofing material. This will put the warranty into effect. If you have questions about how to do this, consult your contractor, as they likely deal with this process on a daily basis.

Labor or Workmanship Warranties

This is the other side of the warranty coin. While manufacturers’ warranties cover new roof or roof replacement materials, labor or workmanship warranties cover installation. These warranties are provided by the contractor who replaces your roof or puts the roof on a new home. Their length varies by contractor, from 3 to 5 to 10 years, with ten years being the most common. Since it is the contractor who provides the warranty, it is typically only effective if the same contractor is called in to deal with a problem that may arise.

Contractors’ warranties usually cover the labor and material cost involved in repairing a roof under warranty if the repairs are made necessary by problems arising from errors made in the installation process when the new roof was installed or replaced. In the case that you have a roof under a labor or workmanship warranty and you notice a problem or leak, you should call the contractor who guaranteed the warranty to assess the damage and make the repairs. It is also important to note that some labor warranties do not cover material costs associated with repairs, so it is important to clarify what type of warranty you will be getting before signing a contract.

We at Florida’s Best Roofing, Inc. offer a 10 year labor warranty on all our roof replacements. If you have any questions about roofing warranties or any other roofing needs in Flagler, Volusia, or St. Johns counties please call us at 386-263-7906 for a free estimate!

Dec19

Roofing Blog

Roof Shingles: What they are and how they’re made

What are they?

Roof shingles are any roof covering that is made up of multiple overlapping elements. The overlap helps to prevent water from rain or snow from penetrating the roof surface. The elements–that is, the shingles–are generally flat rectangular shapes coursing up from the bottom edge of the roof up the slopes to the peak. The successive overlap covers the adjoining locations of the row below, thus preventing water from entering a sloped roof. Shingles can be made of many different materials, including wood, slate or other natural stone, metal, or composite elements, such as asphalt shingles. When the overlapping elements are ceramic or concrete, they are called tiles. Tile roofs are very popular in Europe, but less so in the United States, where the most common material is asphalt shingles.

Asphalt Shingles

Fiberglass-based asphalt shingles are the most common roof covering for residential structures in the United States. This type of shingles are easy and relatively quick to install, they are affordable when compared with other roof coverings, and they can last twenty to fifty years depending on shingle style and climate. Asphalt shingles also come in a large variety of colors, which do not affect the cost, allowing homeowners to customize their roofs to fit their aesthetic.

The waterproofing and protection provided by asphalt shingles mainly results from long-chain petroleum hydrocarbons that are formed in the manufacturing process.

How Asphalt Shingles Are Made

Asphalt shingles are made at dedicated shingle manufacturing plants across the country by several different companies. Top tier roofing plants receive thousands of tons of raw and manufactured material daily. The materials are then transformed into high quality roofing materials with increasingly improving durability as the science behind shingle manufacturing continues in advancement.

Asphalt used at these manufacturing facilities is processed to meet strict quality guidelines, resulting in the creation of strong and flexible shapes. Quarried limestone, which arrives at the plants in the form of large stones, is crushed by specialized milling equipment into limestone powder. The limestone powder is mixed with asphalt to create a manufactured material called filled coating.

Fiberglass forms the center base of the shingles. Many thousands of yards of rolled fiberglass is rolled out into a coater where the filled coating is applied to both sides of the fiberglass at super-heated temperatures exceeding four hundred degrees Fahrenheit. Next, the granules–the rough, gritty surface of the shingles–is applied. Granules are created from ceramically coated fine, mined stones that are specifically sized for the process. The ceramic coating on the granules is what gives color to the shingle. Thus, a specific colored coating is selected for each color and style of shingle.

The asphalt coated fiberglass sheet is fed into a press which embeds the ceramically coated and colored granules. Then, the material is passed over a series of rolls while being sprayed with a fine mist of water, which cools down the material and seals the process. A strip of sealant is then added to the sheet to give additional wind protection to the shingles.

Specialized machines at the plants then slice the rolls into individual shingles which are stacked and packed into bundles. The bundles are packed onto palettes then shipped to suppliers’ warehouses across the country.

Whether you have a shingle roof or roofing of any other material, for all your roofing needs in Flagler, Palm Coast, Bunnell, Daytona Beach, and Deland call Florida’s Best Roofing Inc. at 386-263-7906 for a free estimate!

Dec12

Roofing Blog

Roof Ventilation: Vent Types and Importance

Why does a roof require vents? And why is it that roofs have different types of vents? Well, here we will go over the importance of roof ventilation, ventilation types, and the pros and cons of different types of vents.

Good ventilation systems extend the lifetime of the roof and can reduce the energy consumption and cost of the structure! There are two types of ventilation: exhaust (letting out stale air) and intake (bring in fresh air). Ideally, a roof will have both types of ventilation, but occasionally the architecture of the home will allow only for exhaust, but not intake. Although having both is best, just exhaust is better than nothing at all.

Why is exhaust ventilation important? This is because hot air rises and contains moisture. This is an issue in any climate, but especially in a warm one like what we have in Florida. If hot, moist air is allowed to stagnate in the attic, it will lead to mildew and mold problems which will compromise the wood framing and decking of the roof. To prevent this, exhaust vents are installed at the top of the roof, most often on the ridges, to release this hot air.

Why is intake ventilation important? It’s important because while hot air rises, it is helped if cooler air is taken in to push it up. Intake vents are installed along the eaves of the roof, usually in the soffit, to take in cool air and push the hot air up through the exhaust vents.

Unventilated or improperly ventilated roofs can lead to major, expensive problems such as poor indoor air quality, overburdened air conditioning systems, moisture in the attic space, and dry rot of roof sheathing. Although this is not a problem in Florida, in colder climates ice dams can also form on roofs in the winter months, straining the roof framing and wearing down the material covering the roof.

So what are the different types of vents? Well, there are 7 common types of exhaust vents and 4 types of intake vents. We will start with the exhaust.

Types of Exhaust Vents

Ridge Vents: These are the most common and effective type of exhaust vent. They are installed across the peak or ridge (hence the name) of a roof, allowing the rising hot air to exit out of the highest point. Ridge vents usually run across the entire peak of the roof, or even across multiple ridges, if the roof is large enough to have these. This allows for maximum surface area for the hot air to escape. Ridge vents are installed over a 2 inch gap that is cut in the roof decking at the peak of the roof. They come in two main types: aluminum and shingle-over.

Off Ridge Vents: These types of vents are smaller than ridge vents. They vary in size from 2 feet to 8 feet, but the most common type is 4 feet across. They are typically installed about one foot below the ridge line, after a hole the size of the vent is cut in the roof sheathing. While off ridge vents are not as effective in letting out the hottest air as ridge vents–because they sit below the very top of the roof and have a smaller surface area–they are often chosen for more complex roofs, roofs with short ridge lines, or as auxiliary exhaust venting on roofs that do also have ridge vents.

Box Vents: These are also called turtle vents, since their raised box shape somewhat resembles the shell on a turtle’s back. They are quite similar to off ridge vents and come with both the same drawbacks and advantages. The difference between the two mainly lies in the shape: off ridge vents are elongated, but box vents are square, usually sized 18 inches by 18 inches. These are typically installed in bunches on roofs with short ridges or as auxiliaries in areas of the roof that require ventilation but are not suitable for a ridge or off ridge vent.

Hard-Wired Powered Attic Vents: These are electric propelled fans that help to pull stale air out of the attic space. They are hard-wired into the home’s electrical system and rely on it for their function. There is some debate over the effectiveness of powered attic fans, but they do provide some exhaust ventilation. What is definitive is that their constant use of electricity does raise the home’s electric bill. Another issue is that in air-conditioned homes the powered fans can pull the cooler air from the house’s interior, which raises the AC costs.

Solar Powered Attic Vents: Solar powered attic vents are exactly like the hard wired power vents, except that they get their power solely from a solar panel attached to the vent. This removes the increased electricity cost, but does not eliminate other issues. Like the hard-wired power vents, they are often either too powerful or not powerful enough to function efficiently with the roof’s ventilation system.

Roof Turbines: This is a device that consists of aluminum blades within an aluminum cowl. The blades rotate due to wind movement and pull air from out of the attic and distribute it to the exterior. The upside is that they are eco-friendly and quiet even on very windy days. The downside is that because they are small, many would be needed to ventilate a whole roof. Additionally, they require winds of at least 5 or 6 mph to function properly, which means they provide no ventilation at all on still days.

Cupola Vents: Cupola vents are unique, rare, and expensive. They are, however, often quite beautiful and add to a home’s aesthetic. They were originally created to allow a lot of air into a barn to help dry hay and other crops. They act as both exhaust and intake. They come in many shapes and sizes and often feature quite elaborate decorative features. Another positive to cupola vents is that they allow more light into the home.

Types of Intake Vents

Soffit Vents: This is by far the most common and effective type of intake ventilation. Soffit vents are installed directly on the eaves of the roof (or the “roof overhang”) to provide continuous ventilation around the roof’s perimeter. Soffit is typically made of vinyl or aluminum and can be continuous or individual.

Gable Vents: These are usually round or triangular vents just below the peak of a roof’s gable. They function partially as intake and partially as exhaust vents in a horizontal cross-ventilation system where air flows in one side of the attic and out of the other. This is alright, but less effective than the vertical cross-ventilation of soffit and ridge vents.

Over Fascia Vents: These vents are placed at the top of the fascia board and below the first row of wood covering. They are less effective than soffit vents because the intake surface area is decreased; however, they are very useful in cases where the size of the eaves’ overhang does not allow for soffit venting.

Drip Edge Vents: These are very similar to over fascia vents. The only difference is placement, as they are either part of or added to the roof’s drip edge. The drip edge is a metal strip that is attached at the edge of the roof to direct water drainage off the side or into the gutters.

We hope this post has shown you the ins and outs of roofing ventilation. As always, for all your roofing needs in Flagler, Palm Coast, Bunnell, Daytona Beach, and Deland call Florida’s Best Roofing at 386-263-7906 for a free estimate!

Dec7

Roofing Blog

Rare and Unusual Roof Shapes

In our last post we discussed some of the most common roof shapes and styles in the United States (and really across the world). This time we will provide you with information on rare and unusual roof shapes. These shapes are all unique and most often chosen for aesthetic reasons, heightening the impact of a structure’s style. Due to their unique qualities, these types of roofs are often more expensive to repair and replace since they require contractors with very specialized knowledge and skills. Below we discuss nine of these roof shapes.

Bonnet: Bonnet roofs can be like either gambrel or mansard roofs (see our previous post for these), only in reverse. There are two panes on each side, with different slopes. Instead of the upper panes having a lower slope and the lower a steep slope, as is the case with gambrel and mansard roofs, bonnet roofs have steep upper panes and low sloped bottom panes. Bonnet roofs can have two sides (like a spruced-up gable roof) or four sides (like a hip roof). Bonnet style roofs are popular in particular geographic areas such as Cape Cod and other places in the Northeast, but fairly rare elsewhere.

Saltbox: Homes with saltbox roof styles gained popularity in colonial America, but examples can still be seen today across the country and elsewhere. Saltbox roofs have two sides, like a gable shape, but what makes them unique is that these sides are not equal or symmetrical. The two sides meet at the top ridge, but drop down unequal distances. In fact, one side is significantly shorter than the other, but equal in width. Most frequently, the slope also differs between the two sides. One side usually has a much steeper slope than the other side. Either the short or the long side may be steep.

Butterfly: A butterfly roof is a striking shape arising out of contemporary architecture. It is essentially the reverse of a gable roof, the result of which resembles the shape of the insect that lends its name to this roofing style. While two sides rise up to a ridge in a gable roof, the two sides of a butterfly roof actually slope down into a central valley. As you can imagine, this can easily lead to water retention issues and snow pile ups in colder environments, if special care is not taken to ensure positive drainage and snow is not regularly cleared.

Sawtooth: Sawtooth roofs are similar to butterfly roofs in that they have central valleys created by two sides sloping down. However, sawtooth roofs differ in that their valleys are created due to the repetition of components sloping up and then down, which results in a facade resembling the teeth of a saw. The repeating components can be straight or curved and can vary in slope–the only requirement is that they repeat exactly several times. This is a style most often seen in commercial roofing, and as with butterfly roofs, special care must be taken to ensure proper drainage.

Curved: Curved roofs provide a contemporary stylistic alternative to the straight lines seen in all traditional roofing styles. They give a structure a modern, sleek look, but require specialized skills and materials to install. Creating and designing such shapes requires experienced architects, structural engineers, and specialized contractors, which make them expensive to build and maintain, but the aesthetic possibilities are endless!

Pyramid: Almost five thousand years ago the ancient Egyptians figured out that the pyramid shape gives stability to structures of almost any size. The fruits of their labors are still standing today! The balance of weight and tension makes pyramid shapes and pyramid shaped roofs very strong. In this, pyramid roofs are closely related to hip roofs; in fact, they are a subset of hip roofs in which all four sides have equal dimensions and slope.

Jerkinhead: These are also called half-hip roofs. The origin of this terminology becomes clear with a quick glance (or in this case description) of the jerkinhead roof’s shape. The half-hip or jerkinhead roof has four sides. Two are just like those of a gable roof that meet at the top ridge. At both ends of the ridge you will then find a very short hip. This roof shape has the advantage of strength and stability provided by the hip elements and an old-world aesthetic.

Skillion: Skillion roofs are made of one sloped pane. The slope can be steep or low and the shape closely resembles a lean-to. This does not mean, however, that a skillion roof looks cheap or simple. Homes and other structures with skillion roofs often have two or more skillion roofs at varying elevations which give a very contemporary, modern, look and provide opportunities for more windows which allow for a brightly lit interior.

Dome: Dome roofs look exactly like you might imagine: essentially the roof is in the shape of half of a sphere. The force distribution in these roofs, if properly constructed, makes them incredibly strong and long-lasting. This is borne out by the fact that some dome-roofed structures, like the Pantheon in Rome, are still standing after thousands of years under the original roof! For a closer example, you might want to imagine the Capitol building in Washington D.C. Dome roofs are rarely seen in residential structures and require very specialized architects and structural engineers for their construction.

We hope this post has opened your eyes to the variety of shapes and styles that are out there in roofing. As always, for all your roofing needs in Flagler, Palm Coast, Bunnell, Daytona Beach, and Deland call Florida’s Best Roofing at 386-263-7906 for a free estimate!

Nov21

Roofing Blog

Roof Styles & Shapes

Have you ever wondered about why your roof is shaped the way it is? Why is it different from a neighbor’s roof? Whether those differences matter and where they come from? Well here you’ll find the answers. Below we look at some of the most popular roof shapes and their unique aspects.

Gable Roofs

Gable roofs are the most common type of roofing style installed today. They have a simple and classic look, giving the roof a triangular shape when viewed from the front or the back. This type of roof rises up from the eave to the ridge on one side and then goes down from the ridge to the eave on the other.

Gable roofs can look very different from one house to another because they vary in slope. Low sloped gable roofs give a structure a flatter look while high sloped roofs are steeper and taller. As with most roofing styles, gable roofs also vary because most modern structures do not have just one roof, but instead a main roof with multiple sub-roofs. The ways that the main roof and sub-roofs are combined allows for much versatility.

Hip Roofs

Hip roofs are the second most common style of roof for modern residential structures in America today. They have both advantages and disadvantages in comparison to gable roofs. In fact, it is also quite common to see combinations with a main hip roof and gable sub-roofs, or the other way around.

Hip roofs’ main advantage is in their strength. Unlike a gable roof, which only has two sides, a hip roof goes down from the ridge to the eave on all four sides. The intersection of all four sides at the top allows for greater stability and balance.

The downside is that hip roofs can be more expensive to replace, because they have a greater surface area. This is, of course, in a comparison of two houses of the same size.

Like gable roofs, hip roofs can look very different from one house to the next because they can also vary in slope, from relatively flat to steep. In any case, a house with a hip roof and only hip sub-roofs has a square look, since it lacks the triangle created by the gable.

Gambrel Roofs

Gambrel roofs have a very distinct aesthetic, similar to Mansard roofs, discussed below. They were very popular in past centuries and can be found particularly in the Northeast. They are also sometimes called Dutch roofs.

A gambrel is similar to a gable in that both roofing styles only slope on two sides of the house, leaving the other two sides with siding or stucco going up to the roof pitch. The difference in gable and gambrel is that the latter has two panels, with different slopes, on each side. The two panels that join up at the ridge usually have a lower slope, and then two further panels are attached to these with a steeper slope. This gives the house an overall curved look, without actually having a rounded roof.

Just like gable and hip roofs, gambrel roofs are most often covered with asphalt shingles, although metal roof covering is also an option.

Mansard Roofs

In a way, a mansard roof is to a gambrel as a hip roof is to a gable. Basically, a mansard is a gambrel roof, but with four sides. Each of the four sides has two panels, with the top four panels, which intersect at the top ridge, having a fairly low slope, and the attached lower four panels having a very steep slope.

Mansard roofs can have an overall boxy look, but this is mitigated by certain factors. For one, they often have dormers, windows with small gable shaped roof coverings, that jut out from the steep sections of the roof. The dormers lend this French style shape a certain amount of elegance, making it very popular in complex, historic homes. Due to the steep slope of the secondary panels, mansard roofs also allow for a great deal of attic space, or even the top story to be housed within the slopes of the roof!

The disadvantage of a mansard roof is its expense. This results from the complexity of the roof shape, the high slope, the high surface area, and often the delicate nature of working on historic structures. Furthermore, the roofing materials for mansard roofs can be more expensive. Traditionally, mansard roofs were covered with slate, the most expensive and longest lasting type of roofing material. In the modern day, cheaper asphalt shingles are more commonly used, but this can pose a problem of its own. Shingles are great for the steep panels of a roof, but the four low-sloped mansard panels are better suited for flat roofing materials. This results in a choice between a properly covered un-matched roof, or a matched fully shingle roof, which is not as effective in the low-sloped areas.

Flat Roofs

Flat roofs are most common in commercial roofing, but can also be seen on some residential structures, particularly in urban areas.

Flat roofs should never be completely flat, but their slope is so close to negligible that it is essentially not noticeable by the naked eye. Due to this, to prevent water retention, flat roofs require well functioning drainage systems, as well as special roofing materials that stand up to frequent and consistent water exposure better than standard asphalt shingles or tile.

Flat roofing materials must stand up to water exposure, beating from rain, and being walked on. They must be completely watertight, as leaks in flat roofs are very difficult to find and even more difficult to repair effectively.

These are the most commonly used flat roof materials: PVC membrane, TPO membrane, EPDM rubber membrane, rolled roofing, and gravel and tar.

In the Flagler, Deland, and Daytona Beach area hip and gable are the most common roofs in residential construction and flat roofs in commercial. Whatever your roofing style, if you have any roofing concerns call Florida’s Best Roofing at (386) 263-7906!

Nov14

Roofing Blog

5 Reasons to Choose Florida’s Best Roofing for All your Roofing Needs

Whether you are looking to repair or replace the roof of your home or business, the search for the right contractor can be confusing and stressful. A roof is an integral part and the first defense of any structure, which is why it is of the utmost importance that its repairs or replacement are handled by competent professionals. If you are located in the Flagler or Volusia county areas, we invite you to consider Florida’s Best Roofing for all your roofing needs.

Service and Experience

We are a local company with over 15 years of experience in the roofing business. Our employees are trained roofing professionals with decades combined experience in roofing. We have specialists in roof repairs, new roofs, and roof replacements. They are proficient in handling shingle, tile, metal, and flat roofs. They work rapidly without sacrificing quality and will be happy to answer any questions you may have during the process.

Our office staff is well-informed, organized, and has a reputation for excellent customer service. They will assist you through the entire process in a speedy and efficient manner. Our office, located at 1 Enterprise Dr. in Bunnell, FL, is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 4pm. If you have any questions or concerns please feel free to call (386) 263-7906 or stop by in person. We have color samples of tile, shingle, and metal materials at the office which can assist you in choosing the right material and color for your roof, and our office staff will be happy to answer questions and provide input.

Versatility

Unlike some other contractors, we are experienced and proficient in handling all roofing types. We routinely work with asphalt shingle, tile, metal, and flat roofing materials. We will work with you to choose the best materials for your roof and accommodate all your needs. Our experts handle roof repairs, roof replacements, and new roofs for both residential and business properties. Roof size or complexity is never an impediment and our experience allows us to proficiently repair or replace any roof.

No Pre-Payments or Deposits

We pride ourselves on a stream-lined, no fuss process. We provide free estimates and collect no pre-payments or deposits. You will absolutely never be asked to pay anything until we agree on a price and sign a contract. We make the utmost effort to accommodate each customer’s schedule. Our employees operate quickly and efficiently to achieve quality results. Payment for repairs is due only after the repairs have been completed to customer satisfaction. Payment for new roofs and roof replacements is due only after the roof has been completed and passes inspection from the corresponding city or county building office. (Due to the uniqueness of material of each roof, concrete and clay tile roof replacements and new roofs require a payment of half of the final cost upon ordering of the material).

Insurance Services

We work with you and your insurance company. If your roof was damaged by wind, hail, wind-driven debris, lightning, or any other perils covered under your property insurance policy, and you file an insurance claim, we will assist you with the process and work with you and your insurance company’s timeline. If you are unsure if the damage to your roof warrants an insurance claim, we will come out to do a free inspection and advise you on the appropriate steps to take. When you work with us, our experts will meet with your insurance adjuster to identify the damages to your roof. They will review your insurance company’s response to your claim and supplement it, if necessary, again free of charge. We will be with you through every step of the process until you are satisfied with the outcome. There are no extra charges or pre-payments for this process beyond the cost of your roof replacement.

10 Year Labor Warranty

We provide a ten year labor warranty on any new roof or roof replacement. This warranty comes in addition to shingle, tile, and metal manufacturers’ warranties. The manufacturers’ warranties cover any issues that appear in the roofing material, such as factory defects, which arise before the end of the material’s life expectancy. This is why manufacturers’ warranties vary in duration from 15 to 20 to 30 or 40 years depending on the material.

Our 10 year labor warranty instead covers the workmanship of the roof. If your roof leaks, or you find any other problem with the roof during this ten year period, call us and we will send out one of our experienced roofing experts to assess the issue and fix it without charge provided that it falls under the warranty. If the problem turns out to be related to the material manufacturer, we will guide you through that warranty recovery process.

Additionally, we provide a one year labor warranty on any roof repairs. If we repair your roof and a problem arises in the same area within the year, we will come out and service your roof for no charge.

For all the reasons cited above, Florida’s Best Roofing is your best local choice for roof repairs and roof replacements in Palm Coast, Flagler, Bunnell, Ormond, and Daytona Beach!

Nov6

Roofing Blog

Picking a Roof Color

Choosing the color of your roof is an important decision because a new roof is a big investment and a long term one. Roof colors come in a huge variety, especially when it comes to asphalt shingles, the most common type of roof covering. It is necessary to choose a color that you will be happy with for years to come, since a new roof will serve you for decades into the future. There are many ways to approach this choice which we will discuss here. Whether you are looking to sell your property or live in a home for generations to come, making the right color choice now will take you a long way.

Matching

Roof color makes an impact on the aesthetic properties of any house. Matching a roof color with your home’s stucco, siding, and trim is more than just finding a color that will compliment your siding or stucco. The roof’s color should also go well with the rest of the home’s exterior, like trim, light fixtures, and even landscaping. It is also possible that a variety of colors will correspond to the home in these aspects. Then, it is up to the homeowner to make the aesthetically pleasing choice, after consulting the offerings available from shingle or tile manufacturers. Finding the right roofing material color in today’s world of design can be a challenge, as there is such a diverse selection of colors, but with some consideration you can select a color that will please you for years to come.

There is no reason to get overwhelmed with color choices. Although it is an important decision it falls below that of roofing material and its grade. First, you should choose what type of roof covering (shingle, metal, tile, etc.) you need. Next, find a trusted contractor who will replace your roof. At this point a good contractor will help you with the color choice by providing options and samples. There is a great number of roofing material manufacturers across the country, but each contractor will have their preferred few, typically chosen for the quality of their product. The contractor will have samples from their chosen manufacturers that you can then examine to make a decision. Our staff at Florida’s Best Roofing will be glad to offer you advice, and we have plenty of samples to consider in our office in Bunnell, FL.

Here are some design ideas that can help you decide, which apply across the board and provide a starting point:

Effects of Tone – Tints and shades have particular impacts on the perception of architectural design. For instance, light color used on both exterior walls and the roof can make a small building appear larger. This practice also accentuates stark architectural features which you may need to soften or highlight. On the other hand, the use of darker colors on the exterior walls and roof have a dramatic effect. They make a structure and all its aspects stand out, and they harmonize well with neutral tones. Often a combination of the two, such as a light, neutral stucco tone and a dark roof can provide a pleasing result overall.

Medium Blends – Mid-tone or neutral colored roofs match well with almost any exterior. Colors such as gray, tan, brown, and beige go well with most exterior siding or stucco colors and home styles. Since these are so popular, many variations exist upon them that can compliment smaller details on a home, like the trim and exterior light fixtures or doors. The neutrality of these colors is also appreciated by customers looking to renovate their home in expectation of putting it on the market. People are guaranteed to invest more money in a home with a freshly replaced roof, and a neutral color can be pleasant to the greatest number of prospective buyers.

Exact Matching – It is not necessary and often not possible to match a roof exactly with a home’s interior. Siding, paint, and roofing material manufacturers do not coordinate their colors exactly. Moreover, a structure whose exterior, from ground to roof, is only one color is monochromatic and can be displeasing to the eyes. Rather, it is the use of complimentary colors that is best. Staying in the same color family is also best. A dark grey roof looks great on a house with light grey stucco/siding and white trim. Likewise, a home with a yellow exterior is attractive under a medium to darker brown roof. Melding cool tones with warm is usually not advised. This can be quite jarring and idiosyncratic.

Current Trends – In the present day, siding can be found in a range of colors as well as patterns of brick, stone and wood. Darker colors, such as black and dark grey are rather popular. While in the past these put the home in danger of retaining heat and prematurely ageing the roof, new developments in roofing materials removed this as a concern. Also, white and metal roof colors with designs that embrace energy efficiency and coolness can look great while saving on utility costs, particularly in Florida.

Choosing the color for your roof does not have to be arduous or stressful. Keeping an eye on complimentary colors and the design ideas above should help guide you through the process. Give us a call, and we at Florida’s Best Roofing will be happy to provide further assistance.

Oct30

Roofing Blog

How to Extend the Lifetime of your Roof

The roof over your property is a significant investment and one of the most important, protecting everything beneath it. Because roofs are expensive and so integral to the upkeep of the structure, it is important to routinely maintain the roof over your business or home so that it will last as long as possible.

Here we will discuss some aspects of roof maintenance which can extend a roof’s life expectancy. Life expectancy heavily depends on roofing material. Asphalt shingles, the most popular roofing material, have varying life expectancies from about 15 to 40 years, depending on type. Tile roofs can last about 50 years, precluding outside forces and with proper maintenance. Yet, no matter what kind of roof it is, without consideration of the factors below a roof can deteriorate and sprout leaks prematurely.

Roof Ventilation

Have you ever wondered what all those vents are doing up on the roof? Well, they ventilate the attic, which is integral to insulating the structure and preventing premature decay of roofing materials. In an improperly ventilated attic, summer heat can cause temperatures to skyrocket to up to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. This heated air not only heats up the interior and makes it more difficult and expensive to cool the structure, but it also cooks the exterior roof covering from underneath. This can cause pitting, bubbling, and cracking. This can be particularly problematic in the South, where it is hot and sunny so much of the year.

During the cold months, conversely, poorly ventilated roofs trap moisture. This moisture can get into the insulation and dampen the roof sheathing from inside. To avoid these issues make sure that your roof has adequate ventilation and that it is properly installed. Poor vent installation is a frequent cause of roof leaks. If you suspect that your roof may have an issue in this area, contact a roofing professional or inspector.

Gutters

While not all structures have gutters and downspouts, they are an important part of the roofing system. A roof’s lifetime can be increased by the addition and proper maintenance of gutters and decreased by a lack of these. Gutters prevent the structure from constantly being drenched by rain, which is especially important in a state like Florida. Vulnerable sections of the edifice and roof can sustain water damage if frequently exposed to it.

If you do not have gutters, it is a good idea to install them. If you do have gutters, make sure to keep them clear of debris like leaves, branches, and pine needles. Debris clogs gutters and prevents them from functioning correctly. It also weighs down the gutter system, which can lead to damage to the soffit and fascia system. Inspect your gutters a couple of times a year to make sure they are clear and that there is no sagging. This should also be done after all severe weather events. Finally, gutter-guards can help with preventing debris deposits and save you from having to clear the gutters frequently.

Debris Removal

Debris is not only a problem in relation to gutters. It often accumulates on the roof itself, especially in the valleys. In the Palm Coast and Daytona Beach areas it is common to see roofs with pine needles lying in the recessed areas. Is this ok? Definitely not. Anything that shouldn’t be on the roof needs to be removed. Pine needles, branches, leaves, and animal droppings retain moisture, pool water, and add weight. Too much accumulation can even cause structural damage.

Avoid expensive repairs by preventing all that. Remove debris by using a broom to either push or sweep off the roof. Do not use anything with abrasive bristles or a power-washer, since both can damage the roofing material.

Inspect Your Flashing

95 percent of leaks are caused by improperly installed or damaged flashing. Pieces installed around skylights, chimneys, and vents should be checked. It is very important that they are tight and secure. If you notice any gaps, add some sealant or hire a professional to seal it.

Moss, Algae, and Fungus

Moss, algae, and fungus grow on almost any surface exposed to moisture, and the humid environment of our area is perfect for them. Many roofing materials are especially made to prevent moss, algae, and fungus growth, but even these succumb in time in high-moisture environments. To remove these elements, mix equal parts bleach and water in a bucket then spray it on the mold and mildew.

Trees and Branches

Do you have trees growing close to your home or business? Falling branches are always a risk. Additionally, trees that block the sun can encourage moss and fungus growth by preventing the roof from drying fully. Finally, in a hurricane-prone area, trees close to the house can pose a danger. Make sure these are appropriately trimmed or removed altogether.

What Else?

The goal here is preventing problems before they begin or at the least catching them early. Make sure to perform regular roof maintenance and checks after severe weather events. If you notice even a minor problem–address it before it gets worse. This will save you time, money, and protect your home in the long run. Call Florida’s Best Roofing, Inc. or fill out the contact form on our website for a free estimate!

Oct22

Roofing Blog

Roofing and Hail Damage

Hail damage is a frequently overlooked problem which initiates roof deterioration and causes interior leakage problems for homeowners that continue to increase in scope and severity over time unless properly repaired. While hail storms may at first seem like a rare occurrence in a warm-weather climate such as Florida, that is in fact not the case. Typically, several such storms impact the Flagler, Volusia, and St. Johns county areas each year, causing multiple types of exterior damage to homes, particularly to roof coverings.

Unlike wind, which can tear off roofing materials, hail impacts them in less visible ways. This makes it more difficult to detect, mainly because it requires close inspection, which homeowners rarely do, and a knowledge of the signs of hail, which few have unless they are skilled in roofing construction or inspection. Here I will discuss the signs of hail damage, their impact to overall roof integrity, and the steps that should be taken to protect the home after a hail storm.

Hail impacts different roofing materials in different ways. Asphalt shingle roofs, the most common type of roof covering, are most susceptible to hail damage. Even small sized hail will impact asphalt shingles, causing bruising, pitting, and fracturing. Larger hail only causes more significant damage. The most insidious effect of hail on shingles is granule loss. Granules are the sand-like material, made of crushed stone and minerals, that covers all shingles. Once granules are lost, shingles lose their integrity and become susceptible to water damage, which eventually leads to leaky roofs. This process can take several months, but inevitably over time compromised shingles let in more and more water, which first damages the plywood sheathing of the roof, then leaks into the attic, and eventually appears as water stains on interior ceilings.

Tile roofs, both clay and concrete, are hardier against hail storms, but they are still often damaged by hail. Even small hail storms impact tile roofs. The damage in this case appears as crescent shaped fractures at the edges of individual tiles, as star-shaped fractures radiating from the point of impact, and occasionally entire shattered tiles. Tiles compromised in these ways can let in water during following rainstorms, damaging roof sheathing and eventually causing interior leaks. Subsequent weather events only exacerbate these issues as existing fractures grow larger and the tiles become less effective at protecting the structure. Metal roofs are strongest against hailstorms, and while large hail may dent the metal covering, the roof itself is not often compromised.

Another major problem with hail damage is that it is rarely, if ever, localized. Small repairs are not enough to restore a hail damaged roof to its previous intact condition. When a hailstorm hits, the slope(s) facing the storm are often compromised in their entirety. When this is the case, the roof must be replaced in part or across the whole structure to prevent further damage and future leaks. It is important to catch these conditions as soon as possible, because the longer a hail-damaged roof remains that way, the larger the chance of rotten and damaged sheathing and interior leaks, which cause additional expenses to the homeowner. Interior leaks are particularly problematic because left untreated they can invite mold growth, which becomes a health hazard and requires mold remediation services.

There are several ways to spot hail damage. The easiest, of course, is to hire a professional to conduct a roof inspection, however, there are some signs that can be spotted from the ground. Soft metals are often dented by hail. Thus, gutter downspouts, overhead garage doors, and metal fencing show the clearest evidence of past hail storms. Stucco and siding covering exterior walls may also present evidence of impact, particularly in thicker and softer areas such as the trim around windows, doors, and decorative aspects such as quoning on the corners of the structure. Finally, pitting and fracturing on roofing materials can sometimes be spotted from the ground. For instance, asphalt shingles with significant granule damage can seem to shine or sparkle in direct sunlight.

If you suspect that you have hail damage it is important that you consult a roofing professional to protect your home. At Florida’s Best Roofing we would be happy to come out and give you a free estimate. In the case of hail damage, it is also important that you contact your home insurance company. Home insurance policies cover hail damage to roofs, other exterior surfaces, gutters, fences, and any interior damage that may result from compromised exteriors. Make sure that all damage is documented by you, the contractor, or by an insurance adjuster before repairs are made, as doing otherwise may prevent you from getting a full payout. Also, always save all repair invoices after having work done on your property. We at Florida’s Best Roofing will work with you and your insurance company through the entire process to restore your home to its pre-storm condition and prevent further damage. Make sure to pay attention to weather patterns and how they affect your home. Catching damage earlier is always best and if you are in doubt, do not hesitate to call a professional.

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Oct16

Roofing Blog

Will my home insurance cover repairs to my roof?

As a homeowner you have a home insurance policy to help protect your home from damages and help bring it back to its original condition after such damages occur. Home insurance policies provide coverage for certain events, called perils, and often exclude others: these are all specified in your home insurance policy.

When it comes to roofs, home insurance policies typically cover damages caused by weather. Most frequently, this involves wind or hail damage, although other perils like lightning strikes, tornadoes, and fire are also covered. Indirect damage is also covered, for instance, in the case that wind downs a tree which falls on the roof of a house. On the other hand, some kinds of roof damage are specifically not covered by home insurance. This includes improper installation of roof components, material failure due to manufacturing defects, and normal wear and tear. Wear and tear occurs as a roof ages and affects different materials in different ways. For example, shingles become brittle and metal corrodes. This is why roofs have a limited life expectancy which is typically 15-25 years for a shingle roof and 40-50 years for a tile roof.

Another important part of insurance coverage in places like Florida, and along the eastern seaboard in general, is named storms. Damage caused by named tropical storms and hurricanes is covered in a particular way. Every insurance policy includes a deductible–an amount that the insurance company expects the policy holder to pay out of pocket. This is most frequently $500 or $1000, but can be higher. Damage caused by named storms, however, usually carries its own deductible, separate from all other perils, like a typical windstorm or hail storm. It is referred to as the “hurricane deductible” and is usually 2% of the Dwelling A limit on a policy. The hurricane deductible is always clearly stated in a policy alongside the other perils deductible.

In the case that your roof is damaged by one of the events outlined above and listed in your policy, your insurance will help you pay for your roof repair or even a roof replacement if the damage is extensive or if the roof cannot be effectively repaired, in compliance with state building codes, without replacing the whole roof. To get this process started you will need to call your home insurance company and file a claim as soon as the damage occurs. In Florida, state law says that a policyholder has three years from the date of loss, the insurance term for the date on which damage occurs, to file a claim. It is best, however, to file your claim as soon as you notice damage to your roof in order to prevent further damage in the form of leaks.

Interior leaks are the most obvious evidence of roof damage, but it is best to catch roof damage before these occur. This saves cost down the road and prevents situations that cause homeowners stress and anxiety. It is also important to keep in mind that if interior leaks do occur, you must tell your insurance company about these when calling in the claim, as this damage is also covered under home insurance policies. After the claim is called in, the insurance company will send out an adjuster to assess the damage to both the roof and the interior, if there is any. It is important to set an appointment with the adjuster at a time when someone can meet them, so that the adjuster is able to enter the home and effectively document the evidence of the damage. This is crucial since the insurance company will not pay to repair damage unless they have documentation.

It is frequently difficult or impossible to see roof damage if it has not progressed up to an interior leak. Things like missing or creased shingles and loose or cracked tiles go unnoticed by most homeowners since people do not often spend much time on top of their roofs. Furthermore, even if a homeowner notes evidence of roof damage, he or she will have a hard time pinpointing the exact date on which this damage occurred, unless it follows directly after a hurricane or tropical storm. And yet, this date is crucial when reporting a claim, since claims with incorrect dates of loss are typically denied.

So how do you determine if your roof has damage covered under your insurance policy and the date on which this damage occurred? The easiest and most reliable way is to call a professional. A roofing contractor will be able to identify damage on your roof and pinpoint its cause. At Florida’s Best Roofing, we will inspect your roof for free and advise you whether or not the damage to your home will be covered by your insurance policy. We will also help you figure out the date on which it occurred based on its age and tracked weather patterns in your area. We will also meet with your insurance adjuster to make sure that all evidence of damage is noted. Florida’s Best Roofing services all your roofing needs in Palm Coast and offers free estimates.

Call us today at 386-263-7906.

Category: Roofing Blog